In September 2020, cosmetics giant L’Oréal announced the introduction of make-up recycling bins in 1,000 of its UK stores.
A move which has been met with widespread acclaim in the cosmetics industry and in the media.
After all, it’s great for the environment, right?
But here’s the thing.
Are they really recycling and reusing the used products or is it just a marketing ploy to make them look like they’re doing their bit for the environment?
Now, don’t get us wrong.
We’re not accusing L’Oréal of anything underhand. The make-up returned to their stores may be being recycled, but as sustainability experts, there are a few things about this announcement which set off alarm bells with us:
1. What exactly is being recycled?
Recycling a lot of make-up products isn’t a problem. Most of it can be recycled and reused. The biggest problem is the packaging. A lot of it isn’t biodegradable, and the parts which are, if contaminated, are non-recyclable.
L’Oréal is yet to explain precisely what is being recycled, where it’s being recycled and how.
2. Recycling costs money
We’re all in business to make money, but recycling on a scale like this costs money. So, you would expect prices of L’Oréal products to go up, and they’re not.
Are we really expected to believe they’re taking a hit on their bottom line without covering the expenditure?
In the current climate, it’s unlikely they’d take this hit without covering their costs, especially as there isn’t much profit in recycling plastics.
You would expect their prices to go up. And being transparent about the reason behind the increase would build trust and understanding among their customers.
3. Is it a marketing ploy?
If you’re returning used or old make-up, you’ll likely need to replace it. Lucky then that you’re already in-store to pick up a new one.
Maybe we’re being overly cynical, but we’re not the only ones.
In the BBC article, L’Oréal launches make-up recycling across UK shops, Greenpeace raised their own concerns, saying:
“Recycling will only get us so far. Given the almost daily torrent of research revealing the extent to which plastic pollution is damaging our planet, it’s frustrating to see a major plastic producer, like the make-up industry, fail to commit to reducing its overall plastic footprint.”
A concern backed by reader bpmkent:
“I believe cosmetics (by volume of product) are one of the worst industries on the planet for environmental damage. From animal testing and excessive material waste to high volumes of small, plastic packaging.
I hope they review their whole production chain, not just the end.”
So, with this in mind, what can L’Oréal do to reassure customers their recycling scheme isn’t just a way to give themselves a sustainability halo?
There are a couple of things they could do which would build trust in their new recycling scheme:
1. Display a sustainability notice on their recycling bins
By explaining:
L’Oréal would be backing up their actions with evidence that these bins aren’t being picked up and dumped straight into landfill.
2. Raise prices and be transparent as to why
If they’re taking the hit on the cost of mass recycling, we’d be surprised.
So, raising prices is something you would expect them to do.
And being honest, why wouldn’t it put people off.
The younger generation wants to work for companies and buy products from businesses which are big on sustainability and green practices – 75% of millennials are willing to pay extra for sustainable products.
Raising prices, even by a few pence, and announcing the rise is due to the cost of recycling, is likely to go down well. They will lose a few customers, but they’ll gain many more.
When it comes down to it, this is all just conjecture. But until L’Oréal makes an announcement as to where these “recycled” products are going, there’ll always be the question: Is this just greenwashing?
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